Welcome to Retail Therapy by Prevention! In this series, our editors provide thoughtful, honest reviews of what we’ve been testing lately that we want you to know about—because we refuse to keep these game-changing finds all to ourselves. Whether you’re on a mission to find something specific or simply need a little retail therapy in the form of an impulse purchase, consider this your insider’s shopping guide to everything our team thinks is worth the buy.
After a relatively clear-faced adolescence, I developed severe acne and hyperpigmentation in my 20’s, which has taken me on a later-in-life skincare journey. After a ton of research, I found myself curious about Korean skincare, which has gone mega viral in the last few years for its combination of heavy hydration and calming ingredients that promise a dewy “glass skin” effect. But one product (and intriguing ingredient) kept rising to the top: snail mucin. Review after review claimed to give a glowy and youthful sheen to its wearer. Although my skin is combination, my cheeks are extremely prone to dryness, and the siren call to non-irritated, freshly hydrated skin (corroborated by over 70,000 five-star Amazon ratings!) was all too appealing. Curious, I decided to test the viral CosRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence to see if it lived up to its hype.
Pros
Good for sensitive, dry, or acne prone skin
Fast-absorbing into skin, lightweight texture
Hydration lasts all day long
Affordable
Cons
Might not work with oily skin
Ingredients
The Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is aptly named, as the main ingredient is snail secretion filtrate—yes, snail goo. It might sound outlandish, but the secretion is a naturally-occurring humectant—or an ingredient that helps lock in moisture—which makes it desirable (and effective!) for skincare. “It contains a variety of beneficial compounds, including hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins, peptides, low dose glycolic acid, as well as growth factors. These components contribute to its moisturizing, hydrating, and regenerative properties.” Divya Shokeen M.D., F.A.A.D., board-certified dermatologist, previously told Prevention.
In addition to its highly moisturizing capabilities, the secretion is also meant to offer nourishment to the skin and help with absorption, so its ingredients and benefits can permeate deep under the top layers of your skin. Although snail mucin is clearly the star of this product, it also contains other hydrating ingredients including betaine and sodium hyaluronate, as well as skin-soothing allantin and panthenol. The formula is also meant to help even skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and calm irritation. It also allegedly has anti-aging properties, and is hypoallergenic. Considering its ingredient list, it’s easy to see why people consider it a “holy grail” product.
How I tested
In my journey to developing a skincare routine, I have discovered that along with my sensitive, acne-prone skin, I also struggle with post-inflammatory issues (irritation and red spots, even once the acne clears!). So, as I do with any new skincare product, I made sure to spot test the on a small section on my face. With no additional breakouts or irritation, I added it to my daily morning skincare routine. CosRX instructs to use the product after cleansing but before your moisturizer, so I decided to maintain a simple routine, using the mucin after my tried and true cleanser (Skin1004 Centella Ampoule Foam), and following it with my favorite lightweight and gentle moisturizer (Cerave Moisturizing Cream). I maintained this routine for six weeks to best monitor my skin changes, specifically regarding skin texture, breakouts, and hyperpigmentation.
Since my dryness and breakouts are limited mostly to my cheeks along, I wanted to focus on applying the essence on those dry zones, to give me the elusive ‘glass skin’ effect.
Texture and application
Upon initial application, the product is a bit heavier than a typical serum and feels a bit thick and sticky, which might not be appealing to some. I was worried the gel-like texture would sit on top of my skin, but that was not the case. It blended surprisingly well, so I only needed about a pump for my entire face, and it sank into my skin quickly. Because of its quick absorption, it offered immediate hydration, which was a huge win for the drier portions of my face. The essence also had no strong scents —an important sign I look for to avoid potential skin irritations or reactions.
What I Liked
I tested the CosRX essence over a time period that coincided with traveling to both Las Vegas and New York City—two places with starkly different climates. I’ve struggled in the past with products feeling nourishing and hydrating during dry days that will feel too heavy and sticky to wear when it gets warmer and humid, but that wasn’t the case with this product. Both during my trip to the dry Las Vegas desert and in the balmier (and yes, humid!) New York City days, it felt very light and nourishing, and it helped my skin feel hydrated without feeling oily, tacky, or heavy—just smooth and supple. I was pleasantly surprised with how consistently it held up in both environments.
I was also surprised at how long-lasting the hydration was. Despite using the essence during my morning routine, I noticed my skin was smoother and more hydrated after I’d wash it at night. An issue I’ve long struggled with because of my combination skin is feeling stripped and dry after washing, but it seemed that my morning essence application was helping combat that—despite not reapplying it at night.
It also greatly reduced my existing cystic acne. With each application, I noticed the inflammation, as well as redness and pain go down almost immediately, leading to a generally more pleasant day-to-day experience. (It’s extremely clear if you look at my cheek breakouts before use and at the end of the six weeks, pictured below!)
Before CosRX Snail Mucin Essence
6 weeks using CosRX Snail Mucin Essence
One last thing
While wearing this product I was asked twice what I had done to my skin—two times more than I have ever been asked about skincare in my entire life (though hopefully not the last!). The snail essence delivers on its holy grail promises. Not only was my skin visibly dewy, glowier and healthy immediately after applying, but it also provided a rich level of hydration that lasted throughout the day. While the product feels heavy and thick to the touch, once applied it sinks into the skin quickly and feels lightweight. While I did not see any improvement to my hyperpigmentation during my weeks of use, the reduction of my inflammation and irritation was consistent, and I attribute it to helping prevent any additional acne breakouts. It also withstood both dry and humid environments excellently.
If you struggle with oily skin, as opposed to dry-combination skin like my own, you might want to test this product out on smaller areas to see if it will cause breakouts—but all in all, I can’t believe how many of its lofty promises the CosRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence delivered on—especially in providing all day hydration, calming irritation and healing breakouts, and providing instantly refreshed, dewy skin. In a time when we are fed an endless stream of “must-try” products, I’m extremely happy to find (and further recommend!) one that actually lives up to its hype.